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| Maine et Loire | |||||||||||||||||
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Fontevraud l'Abbaye |
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| The Abbey | |||||||||||||||||
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There is no parking at the Abbey apart for those
staying at the
Prieure de St Lazaire but there is free
parking nearby in the town, where there is also free facilities for
camper vans. There is an entrance fee to the Abbey; seasons tickets are
also available for a little more and are very good value. When in
Fontevraud l'Abbaye also vist the medieval parish church and the
Lantern of the Dead (interior not yet open). Visit the Abbey's website here |
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This
is a magnificent place to visit; the largest
monastic complex in western Europe and which
originally housed five monasteries, . There are
actually three chuches on the site but that shown here is
that of le Grand Moutier. (old French for monastery) The church houses the painted tuffeau effigies of the English Kings, Henry II, his son, Richard the Lionheart, Henry's Queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine and the wooden effigy of King John's Queen, Isabella of Angoulême. Why were they buried here? They were not only kings of England but rulers of an extensive area of what is now France: Dukes of Normandy, of Aquitaine, Counts of Anjou, Touraine and Maine and overlords of Brittany, often called the 'Angevin Empire', although this was not a contemporary term. Neither was it an empire and the expression would not have been recognised by those concerned. The kings died in France and the queens died in retirement in the Abbey. The church has been extensively excavated but no trace of coffins or remains have been found. However the effigies, which have moved around over the years, are now thought to rest where the burials took place, at the eastermost part of the nave. Henry and Eleanor's daughter, Joan, died in childbirth in the Abbey but no monument has been found. Her son, Raymond VII of Toulouse, was also buried in the Abbey and an effigy thought to be his was excavated several years ago; however this is not yet on display in the Abbey. A wall painting, nearly complete, said to be that of Raymond, remains on a pillar of the crossing. Several other sculptures have also been excavated but whether these represent funerary monuments is not known. On display in the visitors' centre is the effigial head only (the rest of the monument having been lost) of the founder of the Abbey, Robert d'Arbrissel, but this is not contemporary. The complex is no longer a working abbey nor the prison into which it was converted by Napoleon: it is run by the French state as a cultural centre and may be visited. You can stay in the Abbey complex at the former Priory of St Lazarus, which has been converted into an excellent hotel. The photographs flanking the title show 1. The west end and entrance to the Abbey Church, 2. The east end of the Abbey Church, 3. The interior of the church looking east where the effigies can be just seen in the centre, and 4. The main cloister. |
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Far left: Hand coloured etching by
Charles Stothard of the effigy of Henry II before its restoration. Left: Similar of Eleanor of Aquitaine Right: Similar of Richard the Lion Heart Far Right: Similar of Isabelle of Angoulême Above: The effigies as they are arranged today. |
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| Henry II | Eleanor of Aquitaine | ||||||||||||||||
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| Richard the Lion Heart | Isabelle of Angoulême | ||||||||||||||||
Also:
Robert d'Arbrissel (c 1117), the founder of the Abber. Early 17th century but only head remains. His empty coffin is on display below the floor of the church. Photograph to follow Pierre de Poitiers, Bishop of Poitiers. Destroyed Drawing to follow |
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Angers Cathédrale Sainte-Maurice |
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![]() Front of the mortuary chest of Ulgar, bishop of Angers 1125 - 1148. Oak, brass gilded and varnished |
Le Musée des Beaux-Arts | ||||||||||||||||
![]() Although this late 16th century kneeling military effigy was clearly originally in the Cathedral, it is now housed in the fine arts museum. Photograph by Dr John Physick |
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| Loire-Atlantique | |||||||||||||||||
| Nantes | |||||||||||||||||
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| Sarthe | |||||||||||||||||
![]() The church from where the cloister would have stood |
L'Epau Abbey |
![]() The chapter house. The effigy of Berengaria may just be made out: right of the doorway, first window opening, the tiny gray structure. |
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East of Le Mans, this was the
foundation and burial place of Berengaria, Queen of
Richard the Lionheart. Her effigy has now been returned
to the chapter house and is placed over the vault where her body had
remained since its burial. Please note that the effigy
is not, as still given in some guide books, in Le Mans
Cathedral where it was situated for safe keeping for
many years. . The Abbey has now been restored and acts as a cultural centre - rather like Fontevraud but much smaller. There is a modest entry fee and car parking at the Abbey is free. NB: The Abbey closes for lunch. |
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| How To Find It from the Channel Ports: Do not enter Le Mans but by pass the city north on the A11-E50; leave this road east of Le Mans on the A28, travelling south.. Leave the A28 on the N23 - the first (and only?) exit and pass through the toll gate. Ahead is a roundabout but L'Epau is not marked on the entry sign post. Take the last exit - N23R - to Changé (L'Epau is now marked telling you to "follow Le Mans"); leave Changé on the D152 to Le Mans; L'Epau is the on the right. Good luck! Do not put Changé into SatNav as there are more than one! | |||||||||||||||||
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There are several effigies in the Musée de Tessé,
which I hope to visit in the future: 1. A Viscount of Maine (?Raoul II de Beaumont-au-Maine1013) 2. A Viscount of Maine (?Raoul III 1040) 3. A Viscount of Maine (?Richard II 1249) 4. A Lady of Maine (?Mahaut d'Ambroise 1256) |
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| Return to previous ('Monuments') page click here | |||||||||||||||||